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October 2017
Issue 83
Good Afternoon Great Gardeners,

This past week I went with my daughter to Washington DC on her 5th grade class trip.The weather was absolutely perfect for walking around looking at all the memorials. There wasn't much fall color there yet, but I am sure in the next few weeks it will look breath-taking.

Temperatures are dropping, and if you have not brought your house plants inside, you need to get bring them in.

As always, if you have any questions, comments or suggestions, hit reply. I would love to hear from you. Have a great-gardening day.

Sincerely,
Holly
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King Of The Forest
The Oak is a highly revered tree, native to the midwest. Known as the "King of the Forest" due to its extraordinary height, impressive longevity and its legendary durability.

Through out history, the oak has been a  symbol of strength and courage.  Roman commanders successful in battle were presented with crowns of oak leaves to wear in victory parades, and the oak leaf remains to this day as a decoration of military success.

Oaks are a wildlife haven home to hundreds of insects and animals, and are a crucial food source for many butterfly caterpillar species.
Bur Oak
Quercus macrocarpa
The stately bur oak is a great choice as a shade tree and for specimen plantings in parks, spacious yards, and other large areas. It's massive trunk has gray to brown furrowed "corky" bark and it's branches bear lustrous dark green leaves that turn yellow-brown in fall. Large acorns with fringed caps attract birds and small mammals.
Grows:
50-80 Feet Tall
50-80 Feet Wide
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Northern Red Oak
Quercus rubra
Northern red oak is one of the faster growing oaks for the home landscape. The leaves are handsome throughout the year, emerging pinkish-red, turning lustrous dark green in summer, and changing to russet-red to bright red in autumn.
Grows:
50-75 Feet Tall
50-75 Feet Wide
Pin Oak
Quercus palustris
Pin Oak is a faster-growing, moderately large tree. It tolerates many stresses of the urban environment and is a favored tree for streets and landscapes. Lush green foliage turns reddish in the fall.
Grow:
50-70 Feet Tall
40-50 Feet Wide
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Swamp Oak
Quercus bicolor
Swamp white oak is a striking tree with attractive peeling bark, especially on young trees. The lustrous, lobed leaves have a two-tone appearance, dark green on top with a silvery-white underside. Fall color is an orange-gold to yellow in mid-autumn. An excellent shade tree for any landscape.
Grows:
50-60 Feet Tall
50-60 Feet Wide
Protecting Ornamental Plants Against Winter Damage
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Ohio State University Extension – Fact Sheet HYG-1002-96
Winter injury on ornamental plants varies from year to year, from locality to locality and from plant to plant. The extent of the injury depends on the type of plants, location in which they are planted, area in which one resides, mildness or severity of the season and preventive measures taken in the fall.

Injury to plants is caused by one factor or a combination of several factors. Sun and drying winds desiccate foliage, and subsequent discoloration of leaf drop results. Low temperatures may injure or kill plants. Warm temperatures on a south or southwest exposure of a tree trunk followed by sudden or extremely cold temperatures can result in bark splitting. Alternate periods of freezing and thawing of soil will cause perennials and new plantings of shrubs to heave out of the ground. Ice and snow storms cause breakage of branches. During the winter, ornamental plants are often injured by rabbits and mice, particularly during periods of extensive snow cover.

Several precautions should be taken with nearly all ornamentals. Plant into well drained sites to avoid excessive moisture and eventual root damage. Before the soil freezes in autumn, the plants should be watered thoroughly. This is particularly important if the summer  or fall has been dry. Research has shown that fertilization in October or November is of real benefit and should be supplemented with spring fertilization for optimum growth.

There are several specific precautions with individual plants that will reduce the extent of winter injury. In the late autumn or early winter, plants should be either wrapped, sprayed, mulched or tied as described below.
Protect Trees By Wrapping:
Newly-planted trees, tender trees, or trees planted where daytime heat is high, such as beside a sun-reflecting wall, should be shielded the first winter or two to prevent sunscald. Tender bark on a southern surface warms by as much as 35 degrees Fahrenheit more than on a northern surface, and when freezing temperatures occur in the evening, the bark may split. Insects and diseases may then enter these splits and lead to further trouble. Wrap the trunks with a commercially available tree wrap.
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Protect Evergreens With Sprays or Wrappings:
Narrow and broad-leaved evergreens lose moisture through their leaves even in winter. Because the soil moisture is frozen, the plants cannot replace moisture lost. As a result, the leaves turn brown and may fall. This is a serious problem with certain hollies, rhododendrons and azaleas.

 
To reduce desiccation injury, spray the plants in early December and again in early February with an anti-desiccant such as Wilt Stop. These sprays form a thin film on the foliage, which helps prevent drying from wind and sun.

Drift from moisture containing de-icing materials often injures evergreens located near drives or highways. This injury can be reduced by protecting the plants with burlap or canvas. Do not completely cover the top of the plant as some light is necessary during winter.
Protect Shrubs and Perennials With Mulches:
Apply a mulch after the ground freezes to keep the soil cold rather than preventing the soil from becoming cold. This will diminish heaving damage caused by freezing and thawing. A mulch also maintains a more even soil temperature and retains soil moisture.

Avoid the use of maple leaves or other mulches that pack down and tend to become moldy. Use instead oak leaves, peat moss, bark mulches, straw, etc. Pine boughs or Christmas tree greens can be propped against and over evergreens to protect against damage caused by wind and sun, as well as being used as mulch.
Protect Evergreens by Tying:
Multiple leader plants such as upright juniper or arborvitae may be damaged by snow or ice. Preventing plant breakage by fastening heavy twine at the base of the trunk; wind it spirally upward to the top and back down in reverse spiral.
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Protect Trees and Shrubs from Rodents:
Some plants such as flowering crabapple, mountain ash, hawthorn, viburnum and winged euonymus are favorite food for rabbits and mice. Injury serves as entrance-ways for borers and disease organisms, while girdling lead to death. Protect the trunk or main stem with a collar of 1/2 inch mesh wire cloth or plastic arbor guards from the soil line up to 2 to 3 feet in height. The trunks may be sprayed or painted with a  rodent repellent. Spray when temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Christmas Greens Orders
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We will be taking
Fresh Greens Custom Orders
Starting November 1st
Current Specials
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Last Leaf Sale!
Remaining Trees, Shrubs, Perennials & Fruits
30% Off
(Regular Prices)
Does Not Include: Mums, Asters, Roses, House Plants (i.e, Citrus, Succulents, Cactus Or Tropical), Herbs, Annuals Or Anything Else Not Designated.
Sorry, No Prior Purchases Are Eligible.

Sale Ends
October 31st
Herbal Recipes
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Beef Stew
1½ to 2 lbs. stew meat
2 tbsp. cooking oil
1/2 tsp. minced garlic
4 bay leaves
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. basil
1 tsp. oregano
1/2 tsp. pepper
3 cans beef broth (or 3½ cups water with 3-4 beef bouillon cubes)
3-4 cups cubed potatoes
2 cups cubed carrots
3/4 cup cold water
3/8 cups flour

In Dutch oven, brown meat in oil half at a time. Return all meat to pan. Add all seasonings and beef broth. Bring to boiling. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 1¼ hours. Add vegetables. Cover and simmer 30 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Put water and flour in container with lid. Shake to blend well. Slowly stir into stew. Cook and stir until thickened. Serve with biscuits. Makes 6 servings.
 
If you have a recipe you'd like to share send it to
office@great-gardeners.com
Pine Needle Loss
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From The Iowa State University Extension Office

It's normal for some of the needles on evergreens to turn yellow or brown and fall from the tree in autumn. This seasonal needle loss, also called fall needle drop, is a natural occurrence. The oldest (innermost) needles are eventually shed from trees such as pine, spruce, and fir. The discoloration and loss of needles can be alarming to tree owners that are not aware of this normal process. Some fear that a disease is rapidly occurring.


Environmental stresses, such as drought and hot temperatures, may cause greater-than-normal loss of needles. The normal pattern of seasonal needle loss is a gradual discoloration and eventual loss of inner needles from the top to the bottom of the trees. In contrast, fungal diseases often cause browning of the newest (outermost) needles, death of entire branches, or thinning of needles on just the lower branches.
Fun Pumpkin Facts
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Carving pumpkins into jack-o’-lanterns is a popular Halloween tradition that originated hundreds of years ago in Ireland. Back then, however, jack-o’-lanterns were made out of turnips or potatoes; it wasn’t until Irish immigrants arrived in America and discovered the pumpkin that a new Halloween ritual was born.

In early colonial times, pumpkins were used as an ingredient for the crust of pies, not the filling.

Colonists sliced off pumpkin tops; removed seeds and filled the insides with milk, spices and honey. This was baked in hot ashes and is the origin of pumpkin pie.

Pumpkins are members of the vine crops family called cucurbits.

Over 1 billion pounds (450 million kgs) of pumpkin are produced in the US every year.


Pumpkins are fruit.

Around 90 to 95% of the processed pumpkins in the United States are grown in Illinois.
Upcoming Events
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Christmas Preview
November 17th
5 pm - 8 pm

Christmas Open House
November 18th & 19th

More Information Coming Soon!
CONTACT US
STORE HOURS
FIND US ON
Wilson's Garden Center
10923 Lambs Ln.
Newark, Ohio. 43055

740-763-2873
740-763-2874 (Fax)

office@great-gardeners.com
October Hours:
Monday - Saturday:
9 am - 6 pm
Sunday:
11 am - 6 pm
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ABOUT US
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We are a family owned and operated garden center specializing in plants that thrive in Central Ohio

For more information about our store please
Visit Our Website